SMAW or Stick Welding is typically used for steel and iron, but it’s possible to weld stainless steel, aluminum and copper as well. It is called “Stick Welding” because the electrode used during welding comes out in the shape of a stick. Stick welding use electricity to melt the stick (aka electrode) which melts both the electrode and joint while also filling the joint with filler metal.
*Stick welding tip:
It’s better to use stick welding for outdoor welding projects because of the wind resistant design of the electrodes. Stick welders are also relatively inexpensive and is considered one of the easier welding methods to learn which is why it’s one of the first places that welders go when they first start.
Video credits to Weldnotes.com it’s a great explanation to the concept of stick welding.
Average Stick Welder Current
The majority of stick welders use AC/DC or AC current (this depends entirely on the electrode used). They are designed to function on the basis finishing an electrical circuit. Electricity leaps between both the electrode and the material being welded which heats up the surface and melts the electrode in place.
The majority of farm or camp projects require a 225 volt AC unit. The amperage of the unit is adjusted using a dial on the machine and is usually set according to the levels needed for the job, metal, atmosphere, and electrode. It’s typically very easy to produce AC power but you’ll find that many welding shops prefer to use DC because of the steady flow of electrons it provides which usually results in a crisper finished product.
Stick welding machines are all made up of the same parts:
Ground Clamp: This is the lead that grounds the connection made between the metal and the welder, which finishes the circuit.
Leads: These are conductor cables that are made to send electricity to the material that’s being welded.
Rod Stinger/ Holder: The rod holder holds the welding rod that melts under the arc of electricity, which makes the weld.
Electrodes: These are covered in flux coating and vary in diameter. The flux typically burns as the rod proceeds to melt, which both makes carbon dioxide and consumes oxygen, keeping the base metal from burning while welding.
Electrodes typically have a variety of types and sizes and are made for the job they will be used for. The common types for steel welding are 6013, 6010, and 6011. The first couple of numbers on the welding rod talk about the tensile strength per square inch or psi. The third number on the rod indicates the welding position that the rod can be used. For example, 1 means that the welding rod can be used in any position while 2 means that it can only be used in the flat and horizontal positions. The last 2 numbers put together discuss the kind of flux, which affects the slag or corrosion that will build up around the weld. Any weld that involves a high voltage of electricity and metals should be considered to be dangerous. Luckily, if you’re cautious enough it will continue to be safe. Above all other things, remember to wear your personal protection gear and you will remain safe.
Also make sure that the area you’re welding in is properly ventilated so that you don’t breathe in the gases created from welding. If you can’t maintain proper ventilation, make sure to purchase a respirator.
How to do your first ever stick weld
Before you can (or should) take on a project it’s best that you get a bit of practice in. If you do this poorly it’s incredibly easy to completely screw up your base metal. Using a T-shaped joint we will discuss the ways to weld 2 pieces of metal together.
Prep correctly
It’s surprisingly easy to weld through corrosion, rust, oil and dirt, but it’s always best to do your best to clean the metals off first. Prepping your metal first simply requires that you wipe the surface that you’re welding off with a clean rag, as well as grind the sides of metal that you’ll be welding. After doing this, make sure you secure the metal that you’ll be welding.
Connect your leads
To make a connection, it’s important to connect your leads as well as ground the metal you’re going to be welding. If you’re welding old, dirty metals make sure to sand the connection areas so they’re conductive. This varies with the electrodes you’ll be using but also make sure to set the amperage. Companies print the recommended amperage range directly on the side of the box. If you don’t know the amperage you should start with just pick something in the middle of what’s recommended.
Start the arc
It’s important to keep the direction of travel in your mind. Make sure that you’re comfortable and move the tip of the electrode close to the area you want to weld. After, you want to drop your welding hood and strike the arc by dragging the tip fo your electrode against the starting point of the metal quickly. Once the arc is fired up move it back to the proper arc distance. Arc distance is generally equal to the diameter of your electrode, which means that if it’s a .23 in electrode the tip of the electrode should be .23 inches from the metal you’re welding.
Video credits to TimWelds It explains the way to strike an arc.
Pick your angle
While you backhand the arc down the bae of your metal, you want to make sure you maintain the arc distance. Since the electrode is being consumed (and is consequently getting smaller) you will have to slowly move your rod in and maintain that arc distance. Also make sure to maintain a consistent angle such as 90 or 45 degrees. It also helps to split the difference by holding 60 degrees. Just make sure that you stay comfortable.
How fast should you travel
The speed and amperage of your weld should decide the speed with which your weld will pool. If you move too quickly, you’ll get less penetration of the base metal. But, if you move too slowly you can burn your metal and have a resulting overall weak weld. Practice is what helps you find the right tempo for your type of welding.
Undercut and thickness
Welds can be thickened by building up the bead through a zigzag or circular motion, which eases the puddle around. Make sure to watch the outside of the puddle to make sure it’s filling the base metal. If the puddle is too thick or enough heat isn’t being generated in the base metal, undercut will develop between the weld and base metal.
Follow the line
Work down your weld line while also considering your angle, speed, and distance. The majority of electrodes tend to burn in a minute. If you require more than one electrode just chip the slag, strike another arc and keep on going. Make sure to never start a weld over an already existing slag.
Video credits to Weld.com. It explains how to run a straight bead.
Clean your weld
If you plan on painting your weld, grinding it, or making it look better overall, clean your slag off with a brush. It helps to do this with a wire brush. When you’re performing practice welds it helps to do this so that you have an understanding of what to expect from your welds.
